Domaine de la Vougeraie, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, 2006 SO030423_Loire In 1983 Elio Altare took

In 1983 Elio Altare took a chainsaw to his father's old Slavonian botti — the founding gesture of the Barolo Boys movement

Remarkably well-placed despite its village AOC designation

and he has built Calderara into the structured

Under the late Eric Albada Jelgersma's careful stewardship

so this has the bones for the cellar but is starting to open

Domaine de la Vougeraie, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, 2006 SO030423_Loire In 1983 Elio Altare tookThis is the top of the Cte de Nuits, full stop Bonnes Mares is one of Burgundy's great grand crus, and Domaine de la Vougeraie farms a coveted parcel of it biodynamically (organic from its 1999 founding, with biodynamics begun in 2001, on the leading edge of the movement). The vines run from over a century old to younger plantings, on an east facing slice partly sheltered by an old quarry's rock, which gives the wine its trademark mix of muscle and